Booster seats & bar codes

Far left hill is Faro viewpoint

Rich biking through barcodes

Biscay is awash with child booster seats - we passed our fifth yesterday - so decided to practice our man overboard drill and fished it out.   Tis the perfect helmsmans seat!   Radar came in handy as it POURED with rain most of the way here and visibility was zilch.  On the plus side we did get to sail.    Now in Viveiro.  Large, deep sided, tree covered ria with islands, beaches and a lovely old town.  Today we have done two long bike rides.  One up the river and the other to a view point at the end of the ria.  We are surrounded by eucalyptus woods which Rich describes as ‘biking through a bar code’ as they are all so straight.

Sunday saunter to Luarca

Sitting in the pouring rain in Luarca, a pretty little fishing village west of Gijon (6 degrees  west) .  Well, the guidebook say it is pretty but we are in the outer harbour and can’t see the old bit of the town.     Tis only the second downpour we have had in four weeks so we aren’t complaining but it would be nice if it stopped so we could go and explore without getting soaked.   There was enough wind to be able to sail today for most of the trip and the sun shone all the way until we were safely tied up.  Think there is a a 2CV rally going on - just seen our sixth.   We head to the first of the Alta Rias tomorrow - Vivero.  

PS Rain stopped.   Sun is shining.  Beer is good & cafe has wifi so this gets posted - hurrah!

Gijon old town

From clouds to lakes

View from Puerto de San Glorio!

Yesterday we came back through the southern part of the Picos taking in the lakes.   We drove up to the top in thick cloud where there should have been a spectacular view!  

Riano Lake
As soon as we started coming down the other side visibility improved and the difference in climate and vegetation was really dramatic.    Got completely lost in Gijon after we got spat out of a Carrefour underground car park in an unknown street, but now safely back with a well stocked boat.    Barcelona v Man U led to copious celebrations last night - including Asturian bagpipes.    An idle day today exploring Gijon and then heading west tomorrow - not sure where to - depends on the wind and the swell     

Goatherd guard dogs

Alas, we awoke to a cloudy, rainy day in the Picos so decided on a hearty walk along a valley fortified by an extremely large breakfast.   We set off under the illusion it was a 3.5 hour walk there and back (life would be so much easier here if we understood Spanish - or had bought a decent map).   Up the valley we went - and up, and up and up - eventually arriving at Pido, a small v. pretty village, but with no bar to slake our thirst and it had taken us 3 hours.   We took the easy way home and came back following the road.       En route to Pido we had our second terrifying experience of the trip so far (the first being the cruising chute incident) when we heard distant goatherd bells.  As we got closer we heard barking as well, when we rounded the corner there were two extremely large dogs guarding the goats and they were not  pleased to see us.    I honestly thought we were going to be ripped to shreds.   Rich remained extremely calm as I firmly hid behind him “nice doggy, good boy, there, there......”   My mind was racing - could they smell my fear, if they go for Rich all I can do is grab a rock and try and thwack them on the head - Rich meanwhile was thinking he would fend them off with the rucksack........     Anyway this was a good reason for coming back a different route as there is no way I would have faced them again.   So with 20km under our feet today we are now in Potes, the hub of the Picos and about to do some evening perambulation round the old town and the touristy shops before finding a restaurant that serves the local speciality of a very hearty bean and meat stew.     

From sea level to 2000 metres

Drove up to the Picos this morning through such glorious country - we have completely fallen for this bit of Spain.    Went straight to the Fuente De cable car and headed up to the highest point that is easily accessible.   Walked for 90 mins or so before coming back down.   Just wish we had been better prepared and had given ourselves enough time to walk back.    Rich was particularly delighted as we got to the snowline.  Now in very comfortable hotel in Cosgaya with swimming pool and tennis court and a view of the mountains.  I have just had my first bath for weeks - bliss!

 
  

Poo Paradise

Now in a marina in Gijon - 3 other boats here, all serious longterm sailors.   Their boats are bristling with windvanes, solar panels, aerials etc - 1 Dutch, 1 Irish, 1 French.    Such jolly bonhomie as we swop tales of Biscay crossings and plans for the next leg.    It's weird that we've been here two weeks and this is the first time we have met other people doing similar things.     Yesterday we were sailing in hot sunshine looking up at the snow covered Picos mountains - a surreal experience.   Spent last night in the most idyllic anchorage - Ensenada de Poo - beautiful beaches, coves, rocks, hills, meadows, sunshine - and we had it all to ourselves, along with the swell which was like sleeping in a merry mixer!   An experience never to be repeated   Have hired a car for tomorrow and are heading for a couple of days walking in the Picos.

Statues in Santander

Poo Paradise

Now in Santander....

Visited a couple of pretty small fishing villages on the way here.   We sat in a bar watching beautiful young girls in their first communion dresses (think Princess Di wedding dress) celebrating with their families.  It was all slightly incongrous though as there was a huge Nintendo DS bus in the town square  into which they kept disappearing to play games!!    Now anchored off a beach just inside the entrance to the river to Santander.    The Spanish youth are holding demonstrations in every village, town & city we have been to protesting at there being no jobs for them.....well, we think that's what it is all about, but I expect the uk press has kept most of you alot better informed than us.  We saw another Brit yacht for the first time last night when he anchored next to us.    He was well into his 70s, solo and had just sailed across Biscay for the umpteenth time.....   A couple more ports to check out  (one called Poo which we just can't resist) before we get to Gijon where we plan to leave the boat for a few days and go walking in the Picos.

Mending fishing nets in Castro Urdiales

Modern art....

Caught the metro into Bilbao this morning - about 10 miles upriver.    Went straight to the Guggenheim museum.   We were both bowled over by the building and the fish gallery but most of the rest of the exhibits just left me cold - are all modern artists obsessed with sex, rubbish, gluttony and depression?    To cheer ourselves up we wandered off to the old town and had delicious tapas and a glass of wine - all was well again.   Came across a rack of Bilbao Bikes as opposed to Boris Bikes, but couldn’t work out how to work them!!   Maybe no-one else could either as the rack was full?

 

Now a bit of culture...

Thursday 19th May

Nomad in San Sebastian

Now in Getxco, which is at the mouth of the river going up to Bilbao.   Tomorrow we become culture vultures (off with the crocs/flipflops and on with the proper shoes) and head to the Guggenheim, a good lunch and a walk around the old town.   On the way here we spent last night at Getaria - small fishing village - and ate the best fish I have ever tasted roasted on open fires.   After we had dropped anchor the locals laid on some serious entertainment in the way of girls rowing races - 12 in a boat.    We had a lunch stop yesterday at San Sebastian which is lovely - Rich tried to winkle his way into the posh yacht club there, but got severely reprimanded by a very fierce signora - turned out he was trying to go in through the ladies changing rooms.    Our Spanish is still virtually non-existent and is matched by most Spaniards command of English.  We have learnt that when we say our boat is a ‘malo’ they think our boat is ‘bad’.  Handwaving and gesticulation seems to work well enough though.

                                          

Duck Tape & Chocolate

Phew!    We have just got back from a 30km  bike ride that there is no way I would have agreed to do if I had seen the contours involved.   Set off at 8.30, but had to return to the boat as R had two slashes in his front tyre.  He set to fixing it with a puncture repair kit and duck tape whilst I googled Brompton spares and arranged for possible delivery of a new tyre a couple of ports down the road.    Our hearts sank  - Nomad without the Bromptons is like treacle tart without the cream, impossible to imagine.  Zanna came to our aid and declared 'You shall have cream'........    However the duck tape seem to do the trick.  You see with chocolate and duck tape in the world all can be restored to its natural order in a moment.   So off we set again.    An hour and a half of uphill to Jaizkibel (1500ft) which is on the Pilgrims route and then 30 mins back to sea level to Pasajes, the next port to the west, which is just STUNNING.   A v. old, higgledy, piggledy village clinging to the cliff, cobbled v. narrow main street, half of which is covered with building.   Eventually you reach a sunfilled square where there is the best beer I have ever tasted.    Met the Morleys there who turned up on their Harley - Bromptons meet Harley - not sure which got more admiring looks as we lined them up (OK so there was no competition really!)    Back home via the valley route which is a bit like the M25 - terrifying and a large amount of concentration needed not to wobble when the larger lorries thundered past.  Now off to promenade in true Spanish fashion and eat Tapas....

Hola! We're in Spain...

Yesterday's land exped was brilliant.   We went up La Rhune, in the Pyrenees, in a little mountain train to the highest point around and had a fabulous view in all directions - including being able to look down on where we sailed to this morning - Hondarribia.     I lie, we didn't 'sail' as there was no wind when we left Cap Breton at 5.45am so we motored the 25 miles.   Hondarribia is in Spain - the other side of the river is France and we biked back there for lunch today.    Hondarribia has got a magical, walled medieval town (though there is some pretty nasty modern building surrounding it) .  Think Carcassone without the tack and the tourists - beautiful.   I have just winched Rich up the mast again - third time this trip - I swear he finds something wrong up there just to keep me from lying around enjoying a siesta.  This evenings entertaiment has been watching a Dufour 45 coming into a berth opposite us.   An older man, looking as cool as a cucumber, reversing in sitting down whilst a younger woman draped herself over the decks, looking beautiful, but not exactly poised to leap ashore with ropes etc.  We were so impressed - he obviously knew exactly what he was doing......  Having got the boat nicely alongside he grabbed a rope, attached one end to his boat and leapt ashore with the other end, though failed to get a  turn round a cleat, and tried to hang onto it while the boat drifted out in the breeze.  Lots of shouting.....girl leaps into action and puts the boat into reverse at full speed.    Crash!    Rich leaps off Nomad to go and help and man gets back on board - girl then throws a mass of rope at Rich who manfully attaches one end to a cleat only  to discover he has both ends and nothing is attached to the boat!  Anyway after a bit more toing and froing they are now safely tied up alongside and inspecting the damage to their rear end.  More injured pride I think than serious boat damage.

We plan to stay here two nights - maybe bicycle along to Pasajes tomorrow - then visit San Sebastien the following day.

A Night Ashore

Am typing this lying in a wonderfully comfortable bed.   The best things you can ever offer travellers - of land or sea - are a comfortable bed, white fluffy towels and robes, a swimming pool  and a glass of chilled champagne and free wifi - we have it all here.     Anne & Anthony Morley (friends from US & Belgium) arrived at Cap Breton yesterday morning and whisked us away to their house about 30 mins away.    They've spoilt us rotten.    We lunched at a restaurant in Cap Breton recommended to Rich by the woman in the wine shop next door, who he complemented on her excellent English, she replied that she was from Oxfordshire!  Today we are being taken on a grand tour of the coast - Biarritz, Bayonne, St Jean du Luz - and up to the best view point near here, La Rhune, which involves a small mountain train ride and is right on the Spanish/French border.    Then it's back to Nomad (I've missed her - it feels a bit like leaving a dog in kennels - hope she's OK)     Tomorrow we head for Hondarribia about 25 miles down the coast, just in Spain.    

Biscay..............Been there, done that!

We’ve done it!!  Crossed Biscay in Nomad!!!  So happy!  So exhausted!  We left Camaret on Wednesday morning at 7.30 and had to motor for the first 6 hours as no wind at all.  Had an easy time going through the Raz du Sein, after which the wind got up, and then we set our course for Hendaye on the French/Spanish border.   From that point on we didn’t see another yacht until we arrived in harbour.  Wind stayed at a steady F4/5 the entire way, until the final 6 hours when there was none, so again we had to motor.   

Highlights - being in the middle of a multi-national exercise involving frigates, helicopters and submarines, seeing dolphins, sunsets, sunrises, cruising along at 10 knots with the cruising chute with appropriate music  (Thomas Crowne affair), being boarded by French customs (any distraction is welcome), enjoying the company of a tired migrating warbler who hitched a ride for a while.  Low points - feeling sick, being sick, getting the cruising chute down and broaching, Rich getting nasty rope burns, the disorientation and utter loneliness felt at 3.30am when the moon disappeared and all was dark without even any fishing boat lights to focus on.    

5 hours before we were  due to arrive in Hendaye we changed our minds and headed for Cap Breton (fantastic beaches, classy upmarket resort)  as the tide and conditions were just right.  In total it took us 53 hours.  So here we are basking in the sunshine (30C), sipping chilled wine and eating freshly caught prawns.   Our plan is to stay here for a couple of days before heading to Spain......

Rich has only just mentioned that it is Friday 13th!

Off watch

Our little friend 

Beach at Cap Breton

Early morning Tuesday and the wind has dropped so we head off today for Camaret.   A mixture of excitement and anxiety as we head for the Chenal du Four, Raz du Sein and onto Biscay, hopefully tomorrow.   Because of the weather we are now planning to head for the French/Spanish border, rather than La Coruna and then work our way east along the Spanish coast.   Great excitement this morning as Rich got up to discover phosphoresence.   As  I leapt out of bed to check it out he admitted it was in the loo!!  I went back to bed v. quickly.   Wee fee gratuit has been brilliant here - not sure what it will be like the rest of the trip.

Nomad's office

More biking...

On the GR34

Monday afternoon - our third day in L'Aber Wrac'h, but it has been no hardship as we have met lots of good people as we compare the weather forecast for heading south and glean much information on places further afield from old hands.    Our bike miles are rapidly increasing again as we explore the local area, though the GR34 (the footpath that goes all round the coast here) is definitely not all bikable so the bikes get carried - all good exercise.  It is such a doddle cycling with the wind - I feel like I am so super fit as I power up the hills with ease.  Only to discover that I have to peddle to go downhill against the wind.   The wildflowers are stunning, the beaches are empty and the sun is still shining.   We plan to wait until tomorrow morning before setting off for the Chenal du Four and Cameret, by which time the wind should have dropped.   We have a problem with part of our anchor winch so Rich has been trying to beg, borrow or steal a vice.   He found a translation website that when he asked "I need a vice"   came back with the translation " J'ai besoin de Memphis".

Beach near entrance to L'Aber Wrac'h

L'Aber Wrac'h

L

Three amazing guys from The Orkneys

We weren't going to blog again until we left L'Aber Wrac'h but three guys on jet skis with scottish accents have moored behind us and when I asked them where they had come from the said 'The Orkneys'.  I roared with laughter and said "no, I mean where have you come from on your jet skis?"   "The Orkneys" they replied......      They are raising money for Make a Wish and Macmillan Cancer Support by going from The Orkneys to Monaco!!   How amazing is that????   Anyway I just wanted to spread the word in case any of you were as bowled over by this complete madness as us and felt compelled to donate.   Isn't wonderful to know that such great adventurous spirit is still out there.   And no, they are not going through the canals.....Biscay next for them.    http://www.europeanjetskichallenge.co.uk/

Meanwhile we wait here for the wind to drop or change direction.   Going through the Chenal du Four with 25/30 knots of wind against tide just isn't an experience I feel I need (the jetskiers didn't know what the The Chenal du Four was.....their navigation seemed to be head for the green stuff and aim off a bit!)  Very happy doing lots more biking and lazing around in the sunshine.

Avoiding small children

Just arrived in L'Aber Wrach having bumped the bottom (very gently at dead low tide) on the way in whilst trying to avoid an entire fleet of small children messing about in tiny dinghies all going in different directions.   Great fun to watch - once we were safely tied up.   Just mightily relieved not to have started off our time in France drowning a couple of them.   Spent last night anchored off Trebeurden.  Had a great sail there from St Peter Port in the sunshine, but had to donk all the way here as no wind at all.   However the sun was shining so I'm not complaining.   We did try to get the cruising chute up but with little success......

We love water biscuits....

Arrived in Guernsey at 3.30pm having left Yarmouth at 2.00am.   The first 10 hours were fast and furious and not very enjoyable.  Nothing eaten but water biscuits.   Once we reached Alderney the wind dropped and the seas calmed and we ghosted the rest of the way to St Peter Port.    Feel like we are on our way.....  Heading to Trebeurden tomorrow.

More bike than boat....

We left Portsmouth Harbour on Sunday - but only to go as far as Cowes as the wind in the channel was just not v. appealing.   Long bike ride up the medina and back down the other side.  Discussions on what to put in the grab bag to go in the liferaft - Rich only seems interested in chocolate whereas I want to put everything in from suncream, tcp, vitamin pills to fishing lines and a solar still (not sure what that is, but have visions of whisky on tap.....). Last night we were tied up to a buoy in Newtown Creek - a favourite spot.   It is now Tuesday afternoon and we are sitting in bright sunshine in Yarmouth harbour having just got back from another 10 mile bike ride.   I think we have done more bike miles than boat miles since we set off....  At last the wind is dropping off a bit so we plan to set sail tomorrow at around 3.00am, heading for St Peter Port.    

Big Buoys Challenge & Busy going nowhere.....

Saturday 31st April

We left home a day early to join in the RNSA’s Big Buoy Challenge  - a competition to ‘bag’ as many buoys as possible in 4 hours in the Solent.    We were really chuffed to discover that we came 4th overall - only to be told that in our class - Fast & Furious - we were last.  Imagine 3 sleek greyhounds and 1 matronly labrador and the outcome was never really in doubt!  A perfect days sailing to start our trip - sunshine, good breeze, no sea.     However we should really have set off for France as the weather is now looking stormy in the Channel so we plan to spend a couple of days in the Solent waiting for a more attractive forecast.